Happy Couture Week, my fellow fashion law-istas! On Tuesday while we were just dodging the Snowmageddon here in New York, Karl Lagerfeld threw a garden party in Paris for Chanel’s Spring ’15 Haute Couture show. Things haven’t been all sunshine and daisies, however, over at the Haus of Chanel as it filed a counterfeiting suit just last month.

Chanel is suing online e-tailer Shop Jeen not only for copying its goods but also its way of doing business. Shop Jeen produced imitation Chanel iPhone cases and allegedly marketed them in the same way as the couturier. According to The Fashion Law, Chanel claims that Shop Jeen’s actions have cost it irreparable damage and “the Defendants have been unjustly enriched.” Chanel is demanding $2 million “for each counterfeit trademark used and product sold,” in addition to attorney and investigative fees.

As you know, I’m all for designers defending their own intellectual property, but I’m not so sure about their ability to sue someone for stealing the way they do business. If a product is already a knockoff, wouldn’t it come with the territory that it is advertised in the same way as the original? If it were any other company but Chanel this might not really fly as two separate charges, but I’m sure the kaiser Karl Lagerfeld will be able to get away with it.

It’s cases like this that make fashion law so much trickier than most other intellectual property and trademark lawsuits. The only thing fashion attorneys have to go off of is prior cases. Then again, this is the Haus of Chanel we’re talking about here. Lots of clothing and accessories can be seen as inspired by or imitating the brand that basically defines classic. Yet as far as I can tell, it looks like Chanel’s got this lawsuit in the (2.55 chain strap) bag.

Katherine Fabian

Katherine Fabian is a recent graduate of Fordham University’s College at Lincoln Center. She is a freelance writer and yoga teacher who hopes to one day practice fashion law and defend the intellectual property rights of designers. Contact Katherine at staff@LawStreetMedia.com.

The post Can Chanel Sue For Stealing Its Style of Doing Business? appeared first on Law Street.

Last week I told you about the $22 million counterfeit operation busted in Queens. So now you might be asking yourself: If getting your “designer” handbags from Canal street is such a big no-no then where should I get my holiday gifts at a reasonable price? Never fear, it’s almost 2015 and there is now a plethora of consignment sites to get your second-hand designer goods. But as great as sites like Ebay, Amazon, and the new Alibaba are, sometimes sellers aren’t always honest when they claim their items are authentic. So to make sure that you don’t get duped (like my poor brother did when he ordered those fake Nikes from China) I’ve put together a handy guide on how to spot a fake. Whether you’re giving or getting one this season, here’s all you need to know about how to properly authenticate a designer handbag.

Chanel

Remember when I told you that I’ve had family members gift me fake bags in the past? When I was in high school, my aunt gave me a Chanel Grand Shopping Tote. I thought it was cool until I found some irregular stitching and a defect in the “leather.” However, there are a few other tell-tale signs aside from the obvious ones. When it comes to the flap bag, the quilting should properly line up when the bag is closed. The biggest giveaway can also be simply the leather itself; the lambskin should feel buttery smooth and not waxy. Also, every bag made after 1985 should have a label with a specific serial number inside.

Hermès

The most coveted bag in fashion history, people will do anything to get their hands on an Hermès Birkin bag. With a retail price of up to $150,000, the Birkin bag has a high resale rate, so it only follows that there are a lot of fakes floating around out there too. The easiest thing to look for is the bag’s lock spindle, as it should turn around smoothly, and should not be bumpy or grainy. The logo should also read Hermès-Paris with a dash, as opposed to an underscore. In the video below, Tammy Flehr-Gates from Michael’s consignment shop on the Upper East Side gives more tips on how to spot a fake Birkin.

Louis Vuitton

For any Vuitton bag, I reiterate the importance of checking that the leather is dry because if it’s waxy, sorry, but it’s probably not even leather to begin with. More specifically, the Neverfull’s strap should be exactly 3/8″ in width. Any larger is a sign that the bag is made of poor material, so it needs a thick strap to withstand any weight. Vuitton is also famous for its various collaborations, like with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. The infamous multi-colored Speedy features exactly 33 colors, so any less and it’s cheap, lazy imitation. The cherry blossom Speedy also has a sneaky feature that an amateur counterfeiter would never know about; the inside should say “Made in Japan.” Although Vuitton bags are typically made in France, this particular collaboration was made in Japan. If it says “Made in France” on a cherry blossom Speedy, it probably wasn’t made there, or even in Japan for that matter.

Balenciaga

My personal favorite, the City Bag, is pretty easy to authenticate. Since it features so much metal hardware, the first thing you should check for is if they’re heavy and not hollow-feeling. The O-rings on all the zipper pulls will also be soldered closed. Rivets have two rectangular notches in them and the straps should be smooth with absolutely no bumps. Also you won’t ever find your average YKK zipper on a Balenciaga, as they only use Lampo zippers on their bags.

Katherine Fabian

Katherine Fabian is a recent graduate of Fordham University’s College at Lincoln Center. She is a freelance writer and yoga teacher who hopes to one day practice fashion law and defend the intellectual property rights of designers. Contact Katherine at staff@LawStreetMedia.com.

The post Holiday Gift Guide: How to Authenticate a Designer Handbag appeared first on Law Street.

A lot has happened in the world of fashion lawsuits and controversial apparel lately. So this week I thought I’d do a roundup of the brands that have come under fire, or even started the fire, over the past few weeks.

H&M Accused of Producing a Kurdish Jumpsuit

H&M have been inspired by the Kurdish female fighters. pic.twitter.com/3QzC7nQgsA

— Wasan Shoresh (@K4life_) October 5, 2014

Last week people seemed to get all up in a tizzy about a green khaki jumpsuit featured in H&M’s latest Fall campaign. Apparently the jumpsuit appeared to be a little too similar to the ones female Kurdish soldiers wear in the Middle East to defend against ISIS. But if you ask me, such a military-inspired jumpsuit has become pretty ubiquitous in almost any culture. H&M also released the jumpsuit in other colors besides the allegedly offensive green, as well as a denim version. In this case, I think consumers have once again read a little too much into the motive behind the garment. While we should definitely be aware of both the women and men fighting for their rights in the Middle East right now, in this case any similarities between H&M’s version of the jumpsuit and the ones Kurdish soldiers wear are merely coincidental.

Converse Sues to Protect Its Classic Shoe

The only thing more prevalent than the classic Chuck Taylor All Stars are the various knockoff versions of it and Converse has finally decided to put its foot down (pun unintended). Converse is accusing 31 companies, including Walmart, Kmart, and Skechers, of trademark infringement for copying elements like the black stripe along the sole and the rubber toe cap. On Tuesday the company filed 22 separate lawsuits in United States District Court in Brooklyn. As much as fake Chuck Taylors annoy me, I can’t help but wonder what took Converse so long to finally take action. Is it possibly too late? I guess we’ll have to just wait and see if they can stomp out their competition (okay, the pun was intended that time).

Bottega Veneta Trademarks a Knot (or at least is trying to)

Courtesy of Jerine Lay via Flickr.

This one is not really as crazy as the others, but I still thought it was interesting. Bottega Veneta is trying to trademark the metal knot it uses on its handbags, particularly as the clasp for its clutches. Apparently that’s easier said than done. The U.S. Patent and Trademark Offices (USPTO) rejected Bottega’s claim, saying that it was not distinctive enough. The designer then had to re-present its case citing the amount of sales they have made and how notorious they are for this particular “configuration” based on its ads. The company also compared its knot to the Chanel double C’s, the Tory Burch cross, and the Ferragamo bow.  Apparently that still wasn’t enough to convince USPTO, but the design house still won’t take no for answer and wants to reapply. As important as it is for designers to protect “trademark” elements, I hope that Bottega doesn’t get too tied up in this application process. (Okay that was the last one I swear!)

Chanel Sues Over Ghostbusters Sweatshirt

Parody T-shirt brand What About Yves has been creating a stir since releasing apparel with the message “Ain’t Laurent Without Yves,” regarding the haus’s name change to Saint Laurent Paris, a couple of years ago. For the most part the targeted designers let the streetwear brand be, but Chanel is not too happy about its use of the company’s logo. Just in time for Halloween, What About Yves released a Sweatshirt with the classic double C logo with the Ghostbusters ghost in between. I’m not sure if this is just supposed to be a festive clothing item, but if there is some kind of joke behind it I don’t get it. But yet again, why has Chanel decided to come after someone using its logo now? I’m not sure. Maybe they just decided that since the tacky clothier Jeanine Heller has finally targeted them that it’s their opportunity to take the designer-offending brand down. I know I sure wouldn’t mind if they did.

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Katherine Fabian (@kafernn) is a recent graduate of Fordham University’s College at Lincoln Center and is currently applying to law schools, freelance writing, and teaching yoga. She hopes to one day practice fashion law and defend the intellectual property rights of designers.

Katherine Fabian

Katherine Fabian is a recent graduate of Fordham University’s College at Lincoln Center. She is a freelance writer and yoga teacher who hopes to one day practice fashion law and defend the intellectual property rights of designers. Contact Katherine at staff@LawStreetMedia.com.

The post This Week in Fashion Law: Kurdish Jumpsuits and Ghostbusters appeared first on Law Street.

Feminism has been getting a lot of attention in the press lately, first with Beyonce’s VMA display, then Emma Watson’s viral UN speech, and now with a fashion show!

For those not inclined to stare longingly at clothes you can’t afford, this week was Paris Fashion Week — the last in the string of “Big Four” fashion weeks that began in New York on September 4. At home in Paris is one of the most renowned labels ever to be declared couture: Chanel. What began in 1909 when a young woman nicknamed “Coco” opened a small shop in Paris, has since grown into a multimillion dollar brand headed by the infamous Karl Lagerfeld. The native German director of Chanel has long had a reputation for highly staged and over-the-top runway shows, and this year was no exception.

Karl Lagerfeld. Courtesy of marcokalmann via Flickr.

While the 2015 Chanel line looked relatively familiar: 1970s-inspired sweaters, pant suits, and even sunglasses all featuring the signature Chanel logo, its runway show closed not with the usual parade of models, but with a full-on rally complete with signs and blow horns. Suddenly, those 1970s styles took on a whole new connotation: emulations of second-wave feminist icons like Gloria Steinem, Germaine Greer, and Kate Millet.

While the display was an impressive one, with famous supermodels like Gisele Bundchen and Cara Delevingne leading the charge, many responded with confusion and skepticism:

did chanel even bother looking up the definition for feminism before using signs saying “boys should get pregnant too” and “be different”

— anna (@aaselfie) October 1, 2014

I think Chanel / Karl Lagerfeld’s feminism walk wasn’t genuine. They should’ve done more research rather than using it as a marketing tool — Sam Fazz (@SamFazz) October 1, 2014

I cannot take Chanel portraying feminism as a statement seriously. Lagerfeld is notorious for degrading women based on their appearance.

— n. didonátti (@bonvivantx) September 30, 2014

I know it’s really early, but seriously Karl. Faux Feminism? #chanel #pfw

— kiwi mohamed (@kiwispeaks) September 30, 2014

I couldn’t help but be skeptical myself. Some of the signs the models held had little to do with modern feminism: “Ladies First,” “Boys Should Get Pregnant Too,” and “Divorce Pour Tous” (which translates to “Divorce For All”) rang distinctly of the misandry that feminists try so hard to separate themselves from. They also contradicted signs like “Match the Machos” and “Free Freedom,” which are true feminist mottos. No wonder people were confused!

In addition, Karl Lagerfeld has made headlines before by commenting harshly on women’s looks. The most referenced incidents are his fat-shaming the singer Adele and saying that Pippa Middleton “should only show her back.”

Saying things like that is definitely not okay, but does he do it because he hates women or because he makes a living by selling the fashion world’s concept of beauty? It’s hard to tell.

I think it’s safe to say that, whatever Lagerfeld’s personal motivations are, the feminist rally was little more than a publicity stunt. Even so, Chanel is a brand that started out by breaking rules. Coco Chanel may have never called herself a feminist, but she freed women from what was acceptable or “feminine” for women to wear during her time. It’s thanks in part to Chanel that we aren’t expected to cinch ourselves into corsets!

In the end, the staged rally might not have had the purest motives, but it keeps feminism in the news and continues the conversation. Plus, those references to feminist icons have been noted and shared, and models like Cara Delevingne — a self-declared feminist — will continue spreading true feminist values through her fan base. Could it have been done better? Oh yes. Will it end up helping feminism? Only time will tell.

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Morgan McMurray (@mcflurrybatman) is a freelance copywriter and blogger based in Savannah, Georgia. She spends her time writing, reading, and attempting to dance gracefully. She has also been known to binge-watch Netflix while knitting scarves.

Featured image courtesy of [arpad ikuma via Flickr]

Morgan McMurray

Morgan McMurray is an editor and gender equality blogger based in Seattle, Washington. A 2013 graduate of Iowa State University, she has a Bachelor of Arts in English, Journalism, and International Studies. She spends her free time writing, reading, teaching dance classes, and binge-watching Netflix. Contact Morgan at staff@LawStreetMedia.com.

The post Always In Fashion, Chanel Stages Feminist Rally appeared first on Law Street.